1. Specifications
Center Height: |
2.250" |
Distance Between
Centers: |
9.75" |
Recommended
Motor: |
1/6 to 1/4
hp, 1725 rpm, 1/2" arbor |
Accuracy:
|
± .001" |
Spindle: |
3/4" - 16
tpi |
Lubrication: |
10W motor
oil (head bearings permanently lubricated) |
Replacement
Belts: |
3M - 315mm
or 3M -500mm |
Tailstock
Spindle Threads: |
3/8" - 24
tpi |
Spindle Speeds
(rpm): |
I -A: |
5800 |
|
2-B: |
3340 |
|
3-C: |
2110 |
|
4-D: |
1375 |
|
5-E: |
880 |
|
6-F: |
500 |
INTRODUCTION
The Taig Lathe components
are set by the manufacturer and should not require any adjustment before
use. You should, however, go over each component, not only to check for
proper adjustment, but also to familiarize yourself with the lathe.
This instruction booklet outlines
the adjustments that can be made to each component. Before making any
adjustment, you should clean the packing oil from the lathe and lubricate
all the parts with 10W motor oil. All the components should slide or turn
easily without any free play. Do not over tighten.
2. Basic Taig Lathe Parts
List
The following parts
are the basic lathe components for either the wood turning or metal turning
option:
1
|
Lathe: |
Headstock,
bed and tailstock.
|
2
|
Pulleys: |
Motor pulley
(1/2" I.D.) and lathe pulley (5/8" I.D.).
|
2
|
Belts |
Short Vee,
Long Vee
|
1
|
Motor Mount: |
Mounting plate,
four 1/4-20x 1"machine screws, four 1/4" flat washers, four
1/4-20 hex nuts.
|
1
|
3/32 Hex Key
|
|
1
|
5/32 Hex Key
|
|
1
|
1" Thin-Profile
Wrench
|
|
1
|
Brass Thumbscrew
|
|
1
|
Carriage Stop: |
6" steel rod,
1/4-20 thumbscrew.
|
Metal Turning Option
- 03J71.01
The metal turning
lathe set includes all items in the Basic Lathe plus the following:
|
1
|
Tool bit,
unground, 1/4"
|
1 Carriage
with handwheel |
1
|
Tool bit post
|
1 Rack with
4-40 capscrew |
1
|
Cross slide
|
|
Wood Turning Option
- 03J71.02
The wood turning
lathe set includes all items in the Basic Lathe plus the following:
|
1
|
2" Face plate
|
1
|
2-1/2" Tool rest with
base and post swivel
|
1
|
7/16" Cup center
|
1
|
3/4" Spur
center |
3. Mounting Instructions
OPTION 1: |
To mount
the motor on the left-hand side of the lathe headstock. (Prevents
dust contamination in open case motors.) |
Material Required
- 1/4 hp motor (48 or 56 frame,
1725 rpm, 1/2" shaft) - (optional L.V. 03J60.40) or customer-supplied
equivalent
- Motor pulleys ( 2 included)
- Short vee belt (included)
- Motor mount (included)
- 8" x 24" x 3/4"
mounting board (optional board L.V. 03J70.04 is medium-density particleboard)
- Two 1/4-20 x 1" rd. hd.
machine screws with four 1/4" washers
- Two 1/4-20 x 1/2" rd. hd.
machine screws with 2 nuts and 2 washers
- Four #10-32 x I" rd. hd.
machine screws with 4 nuts and 4 washers
Motor Rotation
The direction of
the motor rotation will have to be reversed to counterclockwise spindle
rotation (when facing spindle) from standard motor manufacture (clockwise
rotation).
Motor (L.V. 03J60.40 or
equivalent)
Loosen the two screws holding the cover plate at the end of the motor
and remove the plate. Interchange the position of the red and black wires
and replace the plate. If you supply your own motor, please refer to
instructions on motor.
Mounting Motor
Fasten the motor base to the top of the included motor mount with the
1/4-20 x 1/2" screws. The washers and nuts go on top. The slots in the
motor base may be used to position the motor so the weight of the motor
will provide the correct belt tension.
Option 1- |
Mounting Board
Drill Pattern. |
|
A. Drill #7
or 13/64" and tap 1/4 - 20 NC. |
|
B. Drill #7
or 13/64". Counterbore from the underside 5/8" diameter x 3/16"
deep. |
Using Optional Mounting
Board (03J70.04)
The motor mount is fastened to the mounting board with two 1/4-20x1" long
machine screws. Holes must be drilled. Place 1/4" washers under and
on top of the motor mount. Leave about 1/8" clearance between the top
of the washer and the screw head. This space permits the motor to tip
forward for changing the position of the belt.
The 1/4-20 screws may be forced
into the particleboard; however, it is preferable to thread the holes
with a 1/4-20 NC tap.
Mounting Lathe
The lathe is fastened in place with four #10-32 x 1" machine screws and
square nuts. The counterbores in the bottom of the board are to accommodate
the screw heads and washers.
Slide the motor pulley on the
motor shaft with the large diameter next to the motor. Line up the motor
pulley with the lathe pulley with a rule or by eye and tighten the setscrew
on the flat on the shaft.
Tip the motor forward to place
the vee belt on the pulleys.
The lathe is now ready for
use.
OPTION 2:
|
To mount the
motor behind the lathe headstock. |
Material Required
- 1/4 hp motor (48 or 56 frame,
1725 rpm) -(optional L.V. 03J60.40) or customer-supplied equivalent
- Motor pulleys (2 included)
- Long vee belt (included)
- Motor mount (included)
- 12" x18"x 3/4" (or larger)
medium-density particleboard
- Two 1/4-20 x 1" rd. hd.
machine screws with four 1/4" washers
- Two 1/4-20 x 1/2" rd. hd.
machine screws with 2 nuts and 2 washers
- Four #10-32 x 1" rd. hd.
machine screws with 4 nuts and 4 washers
Motor Rotation
Normal motor rotation is used in this installation. (Clockwise spindle
rotation when facing motor.)
Mounting Motor
Fasten the motor base to the top of the motor mount with 1/4-20 x 1/2"
screws. The washers and the nuts are on top. The slots in the motor base
may be used to position the motor so the weight of the motor will provide
the correct belt tension.
The motor mount is fastened
to the mounting board with two 1/4-20 x 1" long machine screws. Place
1/4" washers under and on top of the motor mount. Leave about 1/8" clearance
between the top of the washer and the screw head. This space permits the
motor to tip forward for changing the position of the belt.
The 1/4-20 screws may be forced
into the particleboard; however, it is preferable to thread the holes
with a 1/4-20 NC tap.
Option
2 - |
Mounting Board
Drill Pattern. |
A. Drill #7
or 13/64" and tap 1/4 - 20 NC. |
B. Drill #7
or 13/64". Counterbore from the underside 5/8" diameter x 3/16" deep.
|
Mounting Lathe
The lathe is fastened in place with four #10-32 x 1" machine screws and
square nuts. The counterbores under the board are to accommodate the screw
heads and washers.
Slide the motor pulley in place
with the small diameter next to the motor. Line up the pulleys with a
rule or by eye and tighten the setscrew on the flat on the shaft.
Tip the motor forward to place
the vee belt on the pulleys.
The lathe is now ready for
use.
4. Set-Up and Use of the
Lathe
HEADSTOCK
The headstock consists of two aluminum extrusions held together with three
hex-socket screws. The upper screw tensions the bearings and should be
tightened only to the point where the bearings are firmly held in the
headstock. The lower two screws clamp the headstock to the dovetail lathe
bed. Tighten these two screws evenly until the headstock is held firmly
to the bed.
MOUNTING THE PULLEYS
The two pulleys supplied
with the lathe have close fitting tolerances. To ease their installation
on the spindles, first heat the pulleys in hot water. This will expand
them enough that they should slide onto the spindle freely. Make sure
that the lathe pulley seats fully on the spindle. Tighten the setscrews
once they are positioned properly.
THE CARRIAGE
Mounting the Rack
If you have bought the metal turning option, you will have to affix the
gear-tooth rack to the lathe bed. The rack fits into a groove in the aluminum
bed extrusion (see illustration). Place the rack into the groove with
the end without gear teeth toward the headstock and the other end flush
with the tailstock end of the lathe bed. The rack is fixed in place with
one 4-40 capscrew 3" from the end of the lathe bed.
Adjusting the Carriage Handwheel
Pinion
The handwheel pinion gear spins in an eccentric shaft. If the pinion does
not engage the rack fully, loosen the setscrew locking the eccentric shaft
(located on the right side of the carriage). Turn the eccentric shaft
to raise or lower the pinion with relation to the rack. The adjustments
to the pinion will have to be by trial and error since access is only
possible when the carriage is removed from the lathe.
Adjusting the Carriage Travel
Any free play in the lathe carriage will make it impossible to accurately
turn parts. To adjust the carriage, you must first clean the lathe bed
of any packing grease, then apply a I light coat of I 10W oil to the bed.
Slide the carriage onto the bed until the handwheel engages the rack.
Move the carriage about midway onto the bed. To remove play from the carriage
you must adjust the gib on the back of the carriage. Back off the jam
nuts on the two setscrews on either end of the carriage. Adjust both setscrews
evenly until the carriage moves smoothly on the bed without play. Lock
the jam nut on each setscrew.
Adjusting the Cross Slide
Travel
To adjust the cross slide travel, adjust the tension on the gib with the
three setscrews on the right side of the cross slide as above.
The Tool Post
The tool post is milled to accept 1/4" square tools. The post is fixed
to the cross slide with a #10 square nut that rides in either slot on
the slide. Metal or cardboard shims may be needed to adjust the height
of the cutting tools on centre to the spindle. When fixing a cutting tool
in the post, make sure that both of the setscrews clamping the tool are
tight.
The Tailstock
A brass thumbscrew has been supplied with your lathe. If you wish, replace
the hex-socket screw that locks the tailstock centre in position so that
hand locking the tailstock is possible. Remove the screw from the tailstock,
but retain the steel bushing and replace it with the brass thumbscrew.
Centering the Tailstock
Remove the carriage from the lathe and bring the tailstock up to the headstock
and lock it in place. Mount a taper or any center such as the blank collet
in the headstock. Bring the tailstock center up to the known center in
the headstock and adjust the tailstock's center until it is aligned by
loosening the adjusting screw and moving the tailstock fore or aft on
its dovetail way.
Changing Tailstock Centers
To replace the standard tailstock center with a live center, first remove
the lever pivot screw. Then remove the center with the lever attached;
the lever is not used with the live center. Mount the live center.
5. Care and Maintenance
While the Taig Lathe
requires very little maintenance, cleanliness is important. After working
metal or wood, the lathe must be thoroughly cleaned of swarf or shavings
with a soft cloth and brush such as an old toothbrush. After cleaning
your lathe, oil the bed to prevent corrosion. Particular attention should
be paid to the spindle threads. Before attaching any chuck or component
to the spindle, make sure the threads are not damaged and are clean of
debris. Components will not seat properly if the threads are damaged and
accurate turning will be impossible.
If the lathe will be left idle
for any period of time, you should release the tension on the drive belt,
otherwise you may induce localized stretching in the belt and experience
some vibration once you restart the lathe. This will also prolong the
life of the drive belt.
Occasionally check each component
for play and smooth movement. Adjust and lubricate any part that needs
attention.
Finally, store your lathe covered
to protect it from dust and humidity.
6. General Accessories
THREE-JAW CHUCK (03J70.05)
The three-jaw chuck is self-centering and is useful for holding round
and hexagonal stock. Because it is self-centering, it is particularly
useful for woodturning. The standard, aluminum soft jaws have a capacity
of 1/8" to 7/8".
Before using the chuck, the
jaws must be trued. To do so, mount the washer supplied with the chuck
into the recess milled into the bottom of the jaws. Tighten the jaws with
the tommy bar. Using a boring bar, make light cuts on the inside edge
of the jaws until a .010" to .020" "flat" has been turned onto all of
the jaws.
One modification that is quite
useful for the three-jaw chuck is to turn steps on the aluminum jaws.
Again, to turn the steps on the front of the jaws, first mount the washer
at the base of the jaws. This modification will increase the chuck's capacity
to 3-1/2".
When using a three-jaw chuck,
try to do all operations without having to remove and remount the workpiece.
It is almost impossible to remount a workpiece exactly on center in a
self-centering chuck. Also, do not leave work clamped in the chuck for
extended periods of time; the strain on the jaws may make the chuck sloppy.
Extra sets of standard soft
jaws (03J70.06) are available for making custom jaws or replacing a worn
set. Full-circle soft jaws (03J70.07) are also available to hold thin
stock that needs full support.
FOUR-JAW CHUCK (03J70.08)
The four-jaw chuck can hold virtually any shape of workpiece. Each jaw
is adjusted independently to accommodate any shape.
Setting the Work in the
Four-Jaw Chuck
For centering regular-shaped objects in the chuck (i.e., square or round
stock), set the work in by eye using the grooves milled into the body
as reference. Set up a scriber so that the point just touches the corners
of the work to be turned. Turn the chuck by hand and note any run-out
at the corners of the work. Adjust the jaws by loosening one jaw and tightening
the opposite. Keep on repeating this procedure until the workpiece runs
true. With practice, this should not take more than a minute or so. Tighten
the work into the chuck by finally tightening each jaw exactly the same
amount in sequence (1, 2, 3, 4). Check to see that the work remained true.
For round stock, it is best
to use a dial indicator in the same fashion as above. If you don't have
an indicator, use a fine-tipped felt marker in the tool post so that it
just leaves a mark on the workpiece on the high spot. Adjust the chuck,
rub off the mark, and repeat until the mark runs right around the work
at an even thickness.
A four-jaw chuck can also turn
eccentrics (such as crankshafts). To do so, the clamped work is intentionally
held off center by the eccentricity or throw desired.
When turning with a four-jaw
chuck, you must be careful to keep the carriage and your hands clear of
the protruding jaws of the chuck. Set the carriage stop before turning
on the power to avoid running the carriage into the chuck.
MACHINIST'S FACE PLATE (03J70.09)
& RIGHT-ANGLE JAWS (03J70.10)
The machinist's face plate has two T-slots milled into the face to accept
#10 square nuts. Work can be held on the face plate by using custom-made
clamping bars or available right-angle jaw set. Work is centered on the
face plate much as it would be for the four-jaw chuck.
Because work is often unbalanced
on the face plate, the lathe should be run at the slowest possible speed
and/or the face plate counterbalanced with opposing weights.
JACOBS CHUCK (03J70.14)
& HEADSTOCK CHUCK
ARBOR (03J70.38)
A chuck is required for the tailstock when drilling work. The Jacobs chuck
threads directly onto the tailstock center for this purpose. The Jacobs
chuck can also be mounted to the headstock spindle by means of an arbor
that runs through the spindle. This will allow you to hold tools for machining
parts held to the carriage or milling attachment. It will also allow you
to hold round stock 1/4" in diameter or less, although the collets are
better for this purpose.
COLLET SET (03J70.11)
Particularly useful in watch making, collets firmly hold small diameter
parts. The set includes 1/8", 5/32", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32", 5/16", one blank
collet for a custom-sized collet, plus a closing nut.
NEEDLE-BEARING LIVE CENTER
(03J70.19)
The live center is required to support delicate material between centers.
It is spring loaded so that it will maintain the proper setting while
turning. The live center is also useful when turning wood. Because the
center point turns with the workpiece, heat from friction is eliminated
as well as the squeaking.
The live center comes well
greased with white lithium grease. It should be cleaned with solvent and
regreased periodically. The O-ring should be kept on the shaft to block
any debris from getting into the bearings.
STEADY REST (03J70.23)
A steady rest is used to support material in the lathe that has a long
overhang. It can be used when boring the end of long bars or when turning
thin sections where there is a tendency for the work to spring under pressure
from the cutting tools. Loosen the three posts and adjust the position
of each so that it has a close fit to the workpiece. Be careful not to
move the workpiece off center with the steady rest.
TOP SLIDE (03J70.24)
The top slide allows for cutting tapers or angles. It comes with a rotating
tool-bit post and has a travel of 1-3/4". The top slide fits onto one
of the cross-slide T-slots. First,
loosen the swivel-adjustment bolt on the underside of the top slide (use
a 1/8" hex key). Slide the top slide onto one of the cross-slide T-slots
and adjust the top slide to the angle desired. Lock the angle by tightening
the bolt on the underside of the slide. The top slide is capable of turning
tapers to a maximum of 1-3/4" in length. If you need to turn a longer
taper, you will have to offset the tailstock center.
MILLING ATTACHMENT (03J70.25)
The milling attachment gives you the third axis required to convert your
lathe into a milling machine - the vertical adjustment.
Horizontal adjustments are controlled with the cross slide and depth of
cut by advancing the carriage. To mount the milling attachment, loosen
the T-nuts on the underside of the attachment and slide it onto the T-slots
of the cross slide. The brass bar on the back of the milling attachment
registers with the right edge of the cross slide to ensure squareness
of the milling attachment to the lathe spindle. Loosen the bolts holding
the brass registration bar and lower it over the edge of the cross slide
and tighten the bolts. Tighten the clamping bolts. Any play in the slide's
travel can be eliminated by adjusting the gib on the rear of the milling
attachment.
RISER BLOCKS (03J70.35
and 03J70.36)
You can increase the lathe's capacity by 2" in diameter with the installation
of riser blocks beneath the headstock (03J70.35) and tailstock (03J70.36).
The headstock riser block comes with a taller tool-bit post.
HSS SLITTING SAW (03J70.18)
& ARBOR (03J70.17)
The 2-1/2" dia. slitting saw mounts to the lathe spindle with a 1/2" arbor.
The saw is capable of cutting to a depth of 3/4", with a kerf of .032".
The saw should be run at low speed with plenty of cutting lubricant to
keep the blade cool.
6-pc. HSS LATHE TOOL SET
(03J70.15)
The 1/4" tools available for the Taig Lathe are ground for cutting
mild steel. They will, however, be suitable for use on other materials
such as aluminum, brass, or acrylic. If you plan to work exclusively on
a material other than steel, you should consider buying or grinding a
set of tools specifically suited to it.
Right-Hand, Left-Hand Tools
The right-hand tool is the tool used most often in metal turning. The
face of the tool should be nearly parallel to the work and elevated to
be precisely on center. You will find out if it is, after your first facing
cut. If it is not, a small portion near the center will remain. The left
point of the tool does all the cutting, but the rest of the tool "rubs"
against the work leaving a good finish. The left and right tool will take
heavy cuts, roughing, as well as leaving a good finish when doing fine
work. These tools can also be used for facing.
Round-Nose Tool
The round-nose tool can be used as a roughing tool, but it does not leave
as fine a finish as a right-hand tool. The round nose is useful when turning
work with a shoulder; the 1/16" radius on the end of the tool will leave
an inside radius in the corner of the shoulder to improve the strength
of the turnings.
Boring Bar
This tool is used to open up holes in the face of a turning. It is also
the only way to enlarge a hole absolutely true with the turning because
it does not follow the previously made hole, which may have wandered.
The boring bar supplied with the set of six tools requires a pilot hole
of at least 1/2" . Be careful to leave plenty of clearance around the
shank of the tool; otherwise, cutting chips may pack around the tool and
force the tool into the workpiece.
Parting Tool
As the name suggests, this tool is used to part off work from the lathe.
The parting tool must be set at 90° to the turning axis to maintain side
clearance. When parting steel or iron, the lathe should run at slow speed
and the feed should be coarse and continuous. Use plenty of cutting lubricant.
Parting off brass can be done at higher lathe speeds, without cutting
lubricant. Chips of brass tend to fly off the cutter when parting. Keep
your head away from the cut and always wear safety glasses.
Chamfer Tool
When the tool post is set at 90° to the work, you can quickly change to
the chamfer tool to put an accurate 45° chamfer on your work.
USING METAL TOOLS ON THE
TAIG LATHE
To give a good finish and to cut effectively, tools must be sharp. They
should be stored so that their edges don't knock against each other. Set
tools into the tool post with cutting edge at center height. Use the tailstock
center as a reference. You will need to place shims under the tool to
bring it up to center height. These shims can be thin metal, card, or
paper.
CUTTING SPEEDS
We have provided a table of recommended lathe speeds for common metals;
however, these suggested speeds are for production lathes. Small lathe
speeds can vary somewhat from the recommended ones for production. The
best rule of thumb is "when in doubt, reduce the speed". By experimentation
you will arrive at the proper speeds.
When working with cast iron
or brass, you will not need to use a cutting lubricant, but when cutting
mild steel or aluminum, lubricants will improve the cut and finish. Motor
oil is adequate. There are also cutting lubricants specifically formulated
for lathe work. Cutting oil is best applied to your work with a small
paintbrush.
HSS MILLING CUTTERS (03J70.31)
These double end-milling cutters enable you to mill slots or faces onto
a workpiece held on either the carriage of your lathe or to the vertical
milling attachment. The cutters can be chucked in the collets, three-jaw
chuck, or in the Jacobs chuck. Run the lathe at the speed recommended
for cutter diameter in the adjacent chart. Our 5-piece set includes sizes
1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16".
CUTTING
SPEED (RPM)
|
Diameter
of Material or Drill Size (Inches)
|
High Carbon Steel
|
Cast
Iron, Stainless Steel
|
Brass,
Bronze, Mild Steel
|
Aluminum
|
1/16
|
611
|
2445
|
6112
|
9168
|
3/32
|
408
|
1630
|
4075
|
6113
|
1/8
|
306
|
1222
|
3056
|
4584
|
5/32
|
244
|
978
|
2444
|
3666
|
3/16
|
204
|
815
|
2038
|
3057
|
7/32
|
175
|
698
|
1746
|
2619
|
1/4
|
153
|
611
|
1528
|
2292
|
3/8
|
102
|
407
|
1018
|
1527
|
1/2
|
76
|
306
|
764
|
1146
|
5/8
|
61
|
244
|
611
|
916
|
3/4
|
51
|
204
|
509
|
764
|
1
|
38
|
153
|
382
|
573
|
1-1/2
|
25
|
102
|
254
|
381
|
2
|
19
|
76
|
191
|
286
|
2-1/2
|
15
|
61
|
153
|
229
|
3
|
13
|
51
|
127
|
191
|
3-1/2
|
11
|
44
|
109
|
164
|
4
|
9.5
|
38
|
95
|
143
|
ADDITIONAL TOOLS REQUIRED
FOR METAL TURNING
LAYOUT
TOOLS:
|
CUTTING
TOOLS:
|
scribe
and block
|
center
drill
|
accurate
6" rule
|
set
of short drills
|
calipers
|
files
|
dividers
|
taps
& dies
|
vernier
caliper or micrometer
|
sharpening
stone or grinder
|
machinist's
square
|
|
7. Woodturning Accessories
2" FACE PLATE (03J72.01)
The face plate is drilled
for three #6 wood screws. You can also mount work to the face plate with
double-sided turning tape. One face plate is supplied with the Wood Turning
Lathe.
2-1/2" TOOL REST, BASE AND
SWIVEL (03J72.02)
The 2-1/2" rest, base and swivel are supplied with the Wood Turning Lathe;
however, they may be purchased separately for those who want to turn wood
on the Metal Turning Lathe. The
tool rest base slides onto the dovetail lathe bed with the swivel post
towards the front. The rear thumbscrew on the base locks the base in position
on the bed. The thumbscrew on the front of the base locks the swivel in
position. The rest height is adjusted with the thumbscrew on the swivel.
For improved resistance from loosening due to vibration, the setscrew
located opposite to this thumbscrew may be tightened using the hex key
provided.
7" DOUBLE TOOL REST (03J72.03)
When turning long work on the lathe, a long tool rest allows you to work
without having to continually move the rest. The 7" rest comes with one
base and swivel, and uses the rest base from the 2-1/2" rest supplied
with the Wood Turning Lathe. By adjusting each swivel independently, this
tool rest can be adjusted parallel with the spindle axis, or at an angle
to keep the rest in close contact with tapered work.
EXTRA BASE AND SWIVEL (03J72.04)
An extra base and swivel are available separately for those who want to
use the 7" rest, but do not already have the 2-1/2" rest.
7/16" CUP AND 3/4" SPUR
CENTER SET (03J72.08)
This set is supplied with the Wood Turning Lathe. The 3/4" spur center
mounts to the spindle threads. The removable center pin is held in place
by a setscrew and can be replaced with the 1/2" spur center (03J72.13)
when turning very small spindles. The 7/16" cup center mounts onto the
dead center threads. When using the cup center, you should put a drop
of heavy oil on the cup and center point to reduce friction.
1/4" CUP AND 1/2" SPUR CENTER
SET (03J72.13)
The 1/2" spur center can be held in any chuck, a 1/4" collet, or in the
3/4" spur center by removing its center pin. The 1/2" spur center is supplied
with a flat washer. Place the washer between the 3-3/4" and 1/2" spur
centers; this will protect you and your tools from the exposed teeth of
the 3/4" spur center. When holding the 1/2" center in the 3/4" center,
make sure you tighten the setscrew in the 3/4" center.
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