Pot Chuck Hint From Dave Rohde

From drohde@impop.bellatlantic.net Tue Jun 22 12:32:08 1999
From: drohde@impop.bellatlantic.net
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 12:32:33 -0400
To: pth3k@virginia.edu
Subject: For your future projects: Pot Chucks


  I found you through Varmint Al's. I must say I thought I was the only
fool around to have purchased one of the minis after having fought with
it to replace all the junky bolts and stuff. I passed some info on to Al
and pass it on to you. I replaced to screw in the tail stock which
aligns it with two hardened allen head screws. The large square piece of
metal the call a tail stock nut I replaced with a tool steel T-nut and a
hardened hex bolt. It take a 1/2" wrench now.  I got a taper with a
thread for a heavy duty Jacobs chuck, cut off the tang and it works
fine. I get all the travel out of the tail stock spindle and it holds
well enough for just about any material. I replaced the square tool post
with a really small quick change I got from Harbor when they were on
sale. Warning this had to be modified slightly, a grind here and there
but it works fine and came with a knurling tool and a boring bar holder.

  Pot Chuck: These are example dimensions. You cab start with whatever you
need. You use these in place of a costly collet set up and the accuracy
is impeccable one you get used to using and making them.
Star with a two inch diameter piece of good grade aluminum, say 2024T,
about 3" long.
  Face off one end, Turn it down to 1" the depth of the chuck jaw, Turn it
around and put it in the chuck, mark with a punch where the Number one
jaw its it, align it up like this in the future, You then face off and
bore the other end to the depth and diameter you need.
  Remove it from the chuck and cut it length wise on the centerline axis ,
rotate 120 degrees cut again, and the rotate and cut again. It should
look look a pizz on the end. Your depth of cut should be just past the
depth of your bore. Deburr it and place it back in the chuck.
  Put a good quality hose clamp around it, put your part in, tighten up
the hose clamp and your ready. You can always modify pot chucks and
they're real good for holding small stuff. If you bore a good interior
face it acts like a collet stop so if your facing you always get a
repeat dimension. The other thing is that since you bored the opening
it's always fairly true. You can always take a slight finishing cut to
true it up. If you drill past your bore depth you can put a pin in and
true the pot up. Just remember to tighten up the hose clamp. I've made
these and used them on brass, bronze aluminum and stainless.

I've been working on a design to lengthen the bed. When I get it done
I'll forward it to you and Varmint Al

You'll have to replace the lead screw with a longer one But I think
it's worth it.
I'm figuring on about 12 to 18". The lead screws can be had or you can
turn your own.
The hardest part is going to be truing up the ways but if you've ever
fiddled with a gap bed lathe it's not that big a deal.

See Ya
Dave Rohde

You are Visitor number Cool Page Counter since 06/16/1999


For more information email me at:

All images Copyright (c)1999
Ty Hoeffer